Because our dogs are smarter than we think...

My dog, Felix. He creates new associations every day and I'd like to share them.








My cat, Milo, jumps on the counter. I tell him (firmly) to get down. Felix doesn't like when I raise my voice so he goes to his safe place (under the living room table, by my feet). This repeats just a few times. Now, when Milo (much more silently) jumps on the counter, Felix goes under the table.  Felix has decided that he doesn't like when Milo jumps on the counter because it causes me to raise my voice. Therefore, Milo on counter = Felix under the living room table. Guess what? The dog is now ratting out the cat! Yes, the cat still thinks he rules the roost

Example 2... 

For whatever reason, if I open my oven for more than 5 seconds, our smoke alarm goes off. Felix, Mr Sensitivity is not a fan (who is?). So when it happens, he disappears into the dark office where he feels safe. This happens just a couple of times. Soon, when I open the oven, he disappears into the office. Tonight (though I covered the smoke detector and therefore wasn't paying much attention), I find him laying in the dark office by himself. He really would rather not come out until I'm done cooking.

Example 3... A client's dog growls at their child and proceeds to be verbally corrected. Let's look backwards at this possible issue. Does the dog seem to like kids? Sure, in a general sense...when the child it sitting calmly, and even more so when the child is in her highchair, right? Those pieces of food falling from above really create a loving relationship from dog to child! How does the dog do with loud or sudden noises. "Oh, he jumps - definitely doesn't like them" Ok, so when the child is feeling rambunctious, when she is running around the house like the crazy little monkeys kids can be, tossing toys, fully energized. Is that when the dog growls? "Yes". How about when the child has a toy in her hand and approaches the dog? "Oh, definitely". Do you see the association?? 

The dog has decided that in certain situations, kids can be pretty darn scary and unpredictable! And then to top it all off, the dog gets corrected for letting the child know he's uncomfortable with her! This is a separate issue altogether (please read "Thank your dog for growling")

Now let's approach another potential and very common example.
A dog has little experience with other dogs, so when on a walk - the dog does one of two things, pulls on leash to get to the dog (out of curiosity), maybe barks (out of frustration); or barks to make the other dog go away (since he is stuck on leash). 
The dog owner decides he doesn't want the barking and lunging on leash (it's pretty embarrassing, after all) so he goes out and gets a tool to help, a pinch collar. Now, every time that curious dog sees another dog and barks out of frustration, he gets pinched. An aversive, punishment method. Soon, that curious dog associates the sight of other dogs with something very unpleasant. Depending on how sensitive and intelligent this dog is, he could very quickly change his association with seeing other dogs on leash, to something very negative. Before you know it, that curious dog becomes aggressive-reactive. Tries to make that dog go away. If off-leash, that dog may still hold on to that and have a negative association with the sight of other dogs. Or maybe your dog doesn't have good feelings about other dogs if the owner is around (because after all, the owner was always present when the negative feelings surfaced!) 

And what about that dog that was already afraid of or aggressive to other dogs. The foundation feelings are worse and therefore the behavior gets worse. Or maybe, if on leash, the dog shuts down because every time he vocalizes his feelings, he gets physically corrected. So he hides his feelings. He might even appear friendly. But get that other dog within a certain space bubble, and he may no longer be able to contain his feelings. 
Of course, I used a dog-dog example here but this could apply to dog-person, dog-child, dog-runner, etc etc


In conclusion...
#1 My dog Felix is very sensitive and Milo is a trouble maker!


#2 If you associate scary things with certain triggers (i.e. smoke alarm with opening the oven door; Cat on counter with yelling; pinch of the collar with the sight of a dog; loud noises with children), you dog will have negative feelings about those triggers. My guess is that THAT was not your intention. So try associating positive things with what your dog might be afraid of!

Bringing your newly adopted dog home

Bringing your Newly Adopted Dog Home

By Miss Behavior CPDT-KA, Laura Chapman, MissBehaviorTraining.com

One of the most important things in bringing your new dog home is having patience. The transition takes time and while your family will want everything to work as quickly as possible, our new dog and existing pets will need anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 months to adjust.

Try to plan on bringing your new dog home when you have at least a full couple of days to spare. You will need to keep a close eye on your new companion and make sure all introductions to other family members progress smoothly so bringing a dog home on a Monday night and taking off to work the next morning is not smart.

Supplies to have ready at home:

Gate(s): so you can separate your new dog from your existing pets

Crate: Big enough for your new dog to stand up, lie down, turn around but not run marathons

Cleaner: Something specific to your dog having accidents in the house. Household cleaners won’t serve the purpose as they often have ammonia in them

Non-Slip/Martingale collar: This one if important for safety reasons. This type of collar can’t slip over your dog’s head if he panics and tries to back out of it

Flat leash: Not a retractable – they are both dangerous and sometimes scary if you drop it mistakenly. They also teach dogs that pulling on leash is encouraged (not an early message you want to send!)

Treats: Some really good stuff that can be used to encourage good habits such as going to the bathroom outside, lying down, sitting for greeting, introductions, etc

Kong: This can be stuffed with kibble, treats, peanut butter, etc for alone time

Introducing your new dog to your current family:

Slowly. Your new dog and existing dog(s) should meet on neutral ground, not in your front yard and certainly not in your house! Do the meet and greets one at a time. Walking the dogs together, without letting them greet right away is a good idea. Parallel walking really helps with bonding as it’s a low pressure way of meeting and greeting a new friend. Too much fixation, stiff tail wags, stiff bodies, posturing, raised hackles are all red flags to watch for. If this occurs, please consult a professional.

Once they are ready to come into the house together, use gates to give them breaks from each other. Be a good parent who enforces breaks. Over tired dogs can get cranky or can lose control of their impulses so even if all seems well, separate them for periods of time. This may need to continue for a couple of weeks. The dogs should not be left home alone together. The new dog should go through the crate training process. Leave your new dog alone in his crate (after properly introducing the crate) whether you are home or not. It’s critical that you teach your dog that you will leave for short periods of time, you will leave him with something to do or chew, and you WILL be back. Dogs who spend too much time with their new family and little time alone have a hard time coping with being left alone later on. This is the #1 cause of separation anxiety!

If you have a cat, take it very slow. Rub both the dog and cat down with a towel and switch them so they can get each other’s scent. Your cat should have an escape. Use gates. Put food up high or in his safe room. This is also where the litter box should go. Kitties who feel threatened often find alternative litter boxes!

Please consult a professional if your new or current pets show signs of distress or aggression, or for more in-depth information on introducing your new pet to your current family!

Visit APDT.com for a list of local behavior consultants

Miss Behavior's Pack is growing again!

3 dogs, 1 cat, 2 goats, and now... 
                               a baby on the way!


This will be our first - Due April 15th - and I plan to share some of my own process of getting my animals ready for this wonderful new addition - surprise surprise!


Stay tuned!

If you or anyone you know is expecting, please check out this wonderful program or contact a certified professional to help you, no matter what stage you are in!
http://www.dogsandstorks.com/

Clicker Training

Clicker Training...

Clicker training is a method where you mark and reward every good behavior your dog performs. It is based on positive reinforcement methods. I used to be a huge fan but in teaches classes and in trying to pass on the method to my students, the clicker got left behind and replaced with a marker word, the word "yes". Using the word follows the same concept but it doesn't take the extra coordination the clicker does and you always have your words on you. I found that people often had a hard time remember to keep their clicker handy. Plus, and this is true even in my own experience, sometimes you truly need 3 hands to operate a clicker. So in trying to keep with realistic methods for my clients, the clicker basically disappeared from my teachings all together. 


However, I am reconsidering. The clicker really speeds up the training process, it is a unique sound so it becomes very significant to the dog. If you learn how to use a bridge word, such as "yes", you can easily transition from using the clicker to using the word so that once your dog has good experience with the new cues, you can really wean off the clicker very quickly.


Below is a video showing you the first few steps of introducing the clicker. The next video will show you how to start applying it to teach and clean up new behaviors

A good video for teaching Leave It

I just came across a great video for teaching Leave It and thought I would share it for those people who have or are taking my classes and would like a little visual help. The only real difference between the way it is shown here and the way it is taught in my classes is that we don't use a clicker. Instead we use the verbal marker "YES"


Please contact me with questions!

Wait for Permission in a Multiple Dog Household

Wait for Permission is an essential skill that every dog should have because it teaches them to defer to you for permission to have or do something. The most important time to teach this to your dog is before feeding them their breakfast or dinner because the bowl of food is such a jackpot reward. In the beginning stages, you can actually break each meal up into 3 small meals so that you can practice the "wait for permission" 3 times in a row. Each dog needs to be able to do this individually before he can be expected to do it as a group skill. 


Below is a video of my dogs demonstrating their Group Wait for Permission with their individual releases

The Group Wait for permission with individual releases is a great skill for multiple dog households. It teaches impulse control, diffuses jealousy between dogs, and teaches each dog that you control the access to the resources, thus reinforcing all your dogs to defer to you even among his/her "siblings" and distractions. 




Please note: If your dog shows any signs of food guarding, or resource guarding - consult a professional! While this is a great game to help modify the guarding behavior, it needs to be done properly and with good management or it can make the guarding behavior worse!


If you are interested in getting more information on how to teach this or other skills for your multiple dog household, please contact me for more info or to set up some training
MissBehaviorTraining.com

Open Enrollment Classes

Click image to be directed to website

What is open enrollment? These classes allow you to start class at any time  (as soon as there is a spot open).  No more having to wait 6 weeks to enter a class!  When you sign up for a class, you will choose a class start date  and time and receive a punch card with a certain number of classes to be attended before you can graduate and move to the next level. This makes for an easy way to keep track of which classes you have taken and which you still need to attend to complete the course.  Classes are structured so that each week does not depend  on the previous week, and if you need to skip a week you can make it up at a later date without getting behind. You and your dog will be exposed to many different dogs  throughout your rotation allowing for more socialization  and more realistic training opportunity!

Email update from a client that I just have to share

"Laura!

I’m so excited to share this with you! My mother in law came over today. Usually Buddy freaks out and I have to hold him the whole time she’s here because the minute he hits the floor he goes for her ankles. This time I had Buddy greet her on the porch, and I distracted him with “sit/stay” as she came inside - no ankle chasing!  And after a few minutes ALL three dogs were sitting (anything for cheese) – even Ember who usually almost knocks her over jumping! When they were calm I stopped, and all three took a nap. When my mother in law left she did a couple touches with Buddy as she left and he never went to her ankles, and, she was even able to give him a pat on the head and get a tail wag. For the first time ever we had a calm visit at my house!

Yay!!!"

And then another email later that night...

"And it just keeps getting better – Buddy just got out through a hole in the fence (we didn’t know was there) and took off down the road – I yelled “touch” – he stopped dead in his tracks and came running back to me! (and was rewarded with the biggest piece of cheese ever for that one!)"

So proud of all of them!! A++ from Miss Behavior!

Click on picture for a link to more information!

My dog must have been abused.

My dog must have been abused.


If you are a dog professional or even a dog owner or lover, I'm sure you have heard this numerous times. And while it is possible, it is far less likely than most people think. The fact is that when someone has a dog who flinches, barks, growls, runs away from, or otherwise acts fearful towards men, kids, women, hands, feet, canes, sticks, the crate, etc - the assumption is that whatever the dog is afraid of must have been used abusively toward the dog in his or her past. 


If every dog that was thought to have been abused was actually abused, then the majority of people who have ever had a dog must have abused him. My dog Fletcher must have been abused by the wind, gates, men, yelling children, frisbees, and pretty much any and every other household object. When I adopted Fletcher, he was afraid of every noise, quick movement, new man or child, some women, and much more. I could go on and on about the possibilities, but the fact is that the majority of dogs who have fears of specific objects, movements, people - well, there is a much better chance that they probably just weren't socialized to them as a young pup. 


Fletcher came up as a stray from North Carolina, and we all know how many hurricanes and high winds they get there. So my guess is that something traumatic may have fallen over in the wind and caused him to have such an intense fear of wind. Beyond that, being a stray, he very likely had little to no experience with household objects or different types of people.


Now, my most recently adopted puppy, Cora - she was never abused, this I know. Yet, she is still reactive to people that try to directly approach her or if she is feeling under social pressure. People who reach out too quickly, people who appear from around a corner, or people who are not as soft as she is comfortable with.


So, when your dog is acting hand shy, foot shy, people shy, flag-in-the-wind shy, take a minute and consider that they were never properly introduced to or socialized with that scary thing. Create positive associations with the object or person. Don't pressure your dog to interact, let them do so on their own. Use toys, treats, and other fun things when the object/person is present and help your dog through his or her fear!


And of course, always contact a professional for assistance!

Debunking Dominance

Debunking Dominance and Leadership for your Dog

By: Laura Chapman, Miss Behavior

For decades, the idea of dominance and dependence on establishing yourself as the alpha by forcing dogs in submission through alpha rolls, choke collars, and other aggressive methods has existed. With this mentality, there is an assumption whenever a dog does something inappropriate, whether pulling on leash, jumping on people, or going through the door first, that the dog is trying to prove his rank. In more recent years, with the emergence of popular television shows focusing on these dog training methods, this theory has erupted into the homes of dogs everywhere and despite the disclaimers and advice to consult a professional, everyone is trying bits and pieces of these methods without looking at the big picture. Let’s look at the definition of dominance.

                                           

Dominance is defined as a relationship between individual animals that is established by force/aggression and submission, to determine who has priority access to multiple resources such as food, preferred resting spots, and mates. A dominant-submissive relationship does not exist until one party consistently submits or defers. The problem with the dog-guardian population is that most issues that come up with our companion dogs are not related to priority access of a resource. Jumping on people, pulling on the leash, and running through the door first are not about access to resources but rather about something that has been reinforced in the past or something that the dog has not been taught not to do. Remember that dogs do what works. If you stay in that mindset, you can change a lot of your dog’s behaviors.

Let’s look at leash pulling as an example. Dogs pull on leash because it works. It gets them to where they want to go and it’s usually the fastest way of getting there. We follow. They see another dog and try to pull you all the way there and you follow. What’s the reward? Seeing, sniffing, and maybe playing with the other dog. It’s not about them plotting your demise and trying to be your alpha. It’s about the fact that we have allowed the pulling or not taught them otherwise. For a lot of dogs, pulling also feels good so it’s very self-rewarding. It gives them the exercise they may otherwise not be getting, and dogs are built with a reflex (the opposition reflex) in which they brace or pull against your pressure, the very reason why harnesses often cause more pulling.

Using this mentality, let’s look at jumping on people. Again, they are not plotting their demise and thinking to themselves “ooo, there is a new person coming in the house – watch this, I will jump on her and show her who’s boss!”. No, rather it’s something that has been rewarded in the past so it continues. The dog jumps, the stranger coming in the house inadvertently rewards it but saying “oh, its ok, I don’t mind”, pets the dog or pushes him off (also rewarding), and the cycle continues. And, like pulling on leash, a lot of dogs enjoy jumping.

Remember that age-old adage that aggression begets aggression. Using aggressive tendencies to show your dog who’s boss, such as rolling him on his back, yelling at him, getting in his face, depending on a pinch, choke collar, or e-collar to make your message clear… that’s not good leadership. However, it is a great way to make your dog more frustrated, more fearful, and possibly more aggressive.

Good leadership is clear and consistent. There are clear rules and boundaries. It is non-confrontational. Think about a good boss at work. It’s not the in-your-face type. It’s the type that gives you enough freedom to use your skills and personality as an asset to the company while also giving you those clear and consistent rules and boundaries to follow. Think about a good parent. It’s the same idea. There should be consequences for inappropriate behavior, but the consequences do not need to be physical. The rules should be consistent. You should have fun, and laugh, and play too. Create a positive bond, rather than using intimidation tactics. Work with and not against personality types, accepting your children (whether 2 or 4-legged) for who they are.

Most importantly, if you are having behavior problems with your dogs, consult a professional. Seek help from someone who works on behalf of your dog and teaches you how to find that common ground.

Object Guarding in dogs

I have recently been asked by a couple of people how to teach their dog not to guard one specific object so I thought I would share this video with everyone

This can also be used for a dog who guards many different objects but if that's the case, I highly recommend that you consult a professional for help, as resource guarding can often be made worse even with the best intentions. Remember that dogs guard because of a feeling of competition so if you are always taking things away but never rewarding the dog for giving them up, the dog will very likely just try harder to guard the object next time. On the other hand, if you are always trading a treat for the object, a smart dog will very quickly learn to grab things he is not supposed to have when bored or looking for attention/food reward. In this case, be sure to teach your dog to drop it early on so that you can quickly wean off the food rewards in exchange!

Games classes

Well, its been a while since I've done a blog post. Unfortunately things have been crazy in the training world which is good but also a little tiring and leaves little time for the extras. However, I did want to post that my spring classes are filling quickly and I'm so excited for that, but I also wanted to let everyone know that what is filling the fastest are my Agility for Fun classes! So far, I have a waiting list of about 10 people. And don't get me wrong, I LOVE that but I'm finding it slightly frustrating that while people do see the fun in agility, they don't see the fun and benefits of other tricks classes. Don't forget that tricks and games build confidence, create an amazing opportunity for bonding and relationship building, greatly improve manners around other dogs and new people in a lower stress scenario, and EXHAUST the dogs. 

Jenga Manners

So don't forget that while you and your dog might love agility, there are also some other great games-style classes out there that are worth looking into. Tricks classes and Fun & Games classes are two types. Another type that I have started looking into is Rally O (please see my earlier post about this for more information). I will be starting a Manners Medley class on April 30th which is designed to improve manners using only fun and games. While I of course encourage people to take regular ol' manners classes, I encourage you even more to look into some different styles of manners classes as an alternative!

Teaching "Touch" Hand Targeting - The how and why

Touch is one of the first things I teach in all my classes and private sessions!

Here is a GREAT video showing you how to teach it and WHY

So excited to see this pop up on Youtube in a great demo!

Just a few more pictures of my Cora obsession

The "Guilty" Dog

I can't even count the number of times I've been told that a dog knows he has been bad because he looks guilty as soon as you walk in the door. And while I know better, I certainly see how a person can be fooled!

Dogs behavior is often based on a lot of situational triggers. 1+2+3=6 while 1+3+4 = ... 8 (math is not one of those necessary skills for trainers, though it used to be my best subject!)


If a dog has learned that himself + poop in the kitchen + you walking in the door = you raising your voice about the smell and the mess, then next time the dog is present, plus someone pooped in the kitchen, plus you walking in the door... well, that caused tension in the air last time. Now let's imagine you go as far as to rub your dog's nose in it or even just yell directly at him when you walk in the door ... well, then you can guess that the "guilty" look will certainly be further exaggerated!


Guilt is a human emotion. Unless you catch your dog in the act, he has no idea that you are yelling at him because HE was the one who pooped in the kitchen - he is simply acting on experience. If your dog doesn't like when you yell (directly or indirectly), when you smack him on the bottom, or when you rub his nose in the poop - well then he is going to do everything he can to appease you in the hope that you don't follow through on punishing him for some mysterious act. And of course, if him slinking away and keeping his head low, keeps him out of trouble - then guess what? He knows what works and he certainly will do it again.


How about an experiment? Next time your dog does something you don't like (such as tearing about the trash maybe?) but you don't catch him in the act, walk in the room and throw him a party. Get excited, play with him. Do this a few times consistently, and I'm willing to bet all I have on the fact that after just a few repetitions, you can walk in the room + dog + trash strewn and that will equal a very excited dog!


Food for thought?

And there IS a study to back this up: http://www.impactlab.net/2009/06/11/is-your-dog-really-guilty-when-he-has-the-guilty-look/

Gus and George as Therapy Goats

Nursing home visits in their first year!

Gus and George, the goats

I'm off to visit the Laconia Center nursing home with the goats this morning so I thought it would be appropriate to share this video from when they were "kids" 

They are now ALMOST a year old...

RIP Felix?

An oldie but a goodie ;o)
Ha! You'll have to excuse the beer bottles in the background - no, they were not from this same morning!

Puppy Evaluation: Umbrella Startle Test

I thought I would share this video. I recently adopted my foster puppy, Cora, as most of you now know. I was looking back at some of the videos from evaluating them when they were close to 4/5 months old and one video I had taken was of their response to part of their test, the umbrella startle test. Basically, I open an umbrella and see how they react. I then put it on the ground and again, watch their response and their recovery period. 

You will notice many different responses, the most interesting being that of Eva, the black puppy - she never fully recovered from it and actually was really nervous about me for the next two hours, since I was directly associated with causing the startle. In the other extreme was my Cora (Erica at the time), up until this point she had appeared a little more independent (which some people see as shy or anti-social) but she surprised me by being the first one to go up to the umbrella and even walk on it, proving that she had a very quick recovery time to scary situations. This continues to prove itself as she grows up. 

Enjoy and please feel free to comment!! (I apologize for the shaky video)

Introducing...

Cora

The name change is official!

Miss Behavior's Pack has grown!

Well, it's official. Erica just fit in far too perfectly and I got far too attached to let her go anywhere. So here she stays!

 

She really made her self at home with poor Felix

Next order of business. A new name. Erica just won't do

Top contenders are:

Willow, Nora, Luna, Bridget

Many others suggested but this is a tough decision!!

Input is of course welcome. Which name do YOU think suits her??

Speaking of fun and games classes...

Welcome March

With March comes the first signs of SPRING. Or that's the hope anyways. And with spring come many new things with my business. This spring and summer, keep an eye out for many new classes and well as some old favorites! 






Fun and Games - using games to improve your dogs manners - Red Light/Green Light; Simon Says; Obstacle Course, etc
Agility for Fun - this one describes itself - I don't offer agility class as a competitive sport, but rather a class that gives your dog great bonding with you, great exercise, and manners/self control along the way
Rally O Fun - See my February post about Rally O, this is a dog sport that combines agility and obedience is a fun atmosphere. Again, look for my own version of this class coming in late spring!
Move Your Mutt - And the one I'm the most excited about- my new fitness class that will include your dog. This class will be intended to offer you a boot camp style fitness class, while also giving your dog the exercise he needs, as well as the obedience. Do you think your dog can do a good down stay while you do jumping jacks in front of him? How about his leash walking skills, do you think they are good enough to be able to do some weave poles or jumps WITH him? How about in the presence of other high energy dogs? You will no longer need to feel guilty getting yourself the exercise you need while leaving your dog at home! A personal trainer will be on site!


Those are just to name a few. Also keep an eye out for workshops and seminars with popular topics!


If you are looking forward to one of the above classes but have never done any formal manners work with your dog in a group setting, I would suggest first starting with either a STAR Puppy class or Learn Your Manners class. My next session starts Sunday March 13th - Sign up via my website!
Or email me if you have interest in a specific class so I can add you to the contact list!

Beautiful photo

Courtesy of Jessica Swett!

My foster pup, Erica

Choosing a trainer

Please please do your research when choosing a dog trainer for you and your family. Don't necessarily go with the first one you come across. Observe classes, ask around in the community and ask THEM questions about their methods, experiences, referrals etc. The training you receive for your dog is hopefully for a lifetime and each dog will respond differently to different methods. Don't choose the wrong trainer and wrong method - it could squash your dog's confidence and break your bond with him/her. 


A person does not need to be certified to be a "dog trainer" and there are a few out there who are not certified but easily could be. However, certification through the right organization, requires the trainer to keep up with continuing education, prove his/her credentials, and keep a positive reputation in society. You wouldn't send your children to a teacher who didn't have decent credentials and a good reputation so why wouldn't you put the same thought into who trains you to teach your dog. Go with your gut and research your options. 
Your dog deserves it.


APDT.com

Fitness class with your dog

There is a huge epidemic of not only overweight people in the US but overweight pets as well. That got me thinking, what if you could get fit WITH your dog? No I'm not talking about just walking your dog or even running with your dog. That can be entertaining for some but I personally am not much of a runner or even a walker. Sure, I'll do it. For my dog. But what if you could have more fun with fitness and include your dog at the same time? I used to go to a boot camp style class and it was the only thing that really kept me motivated. Until I moved and now I'm a little scared to start over. But I remember thinking that it would be great if the outdoor classes could have included dogs too! That way I wouldn't have to feel so guilty about leaving my 4-legged friend at home. And since no one around here offers it, I figured that I could get this up and running myself! Why not, right?


Of course, this type of class would do enormous things for teaching your dog some good obedience skills too, not to mention the incredible bonding that would happen between you and your partner dog. Sprinting while practicing recalls. Getting an amazing Stay out of your dog while you do some jumping jacks. Doing some agility, literally with your dog, leash walking skills attained while sprinting, jogging, lunging - all those paces that your dog would need to learn to cater to... Talk about a well mannered and FIT dog! 


I would love to get a list together of people who might be interested in joining this type of class. 
Please message me via facebook: facebook.com/missbehavior
 or email: Info@missbehaviortraining.com
Otherwise, stay tuned as I work out all the details!

Control Issues...

I think that a lot of dog trainers have one similar trait within their personality, even if most won't admit it. Some need to control. It's not a bad thing, nor is it always a good thing. It needs an appropriate outlet. Psychologically speaking, it may have come from lack of being able to control something else in their life, either presently or in the past. Then of course, you get the trainers who want to control with force and confrontation or you get the trainers who want to control in more of a matter-of-fact, this is just the way things are done kind of way. Without this trait of control, how would one have started experimenting with dog behavior, with the need to change the way the dog acts. There, of course, has to be a balance sought out here. Yes, I want to control my dog's behavior but I'm not going to change who they are, or what their personality is. For that reason, I need to take the time to try to teach the human side of the equation how to accept their dog for who he is, work with him rather than against him, and learn to parent him and advocate for him. 


Now here is where the controlling side of my personality clashing with the job. When I can't PUSH training on people. I know just how important training is, not only to create an obedient dog, but also to create a positive relationship with your dog. I can't march down the aisles of Walmart and slap everyone buying Beneful dog food upside the head. But don't think I'm not tempted! I can't preach to everyone, pushing a second manners class on them because I know the likelihood of success for the dog and person who takes that second class, over the person who just takes one to say they did. I am well aware of the financial constraints people have and of the time constraints. I know that people get their dogs for companionship, sometimes on a whim, sometimes mismatched, but the fact is that most people love their dogs and mismatched or not, they can't imagine their life without them. Realistically, I would love to insist that everyone consults a qualified trainer and behavior consultant but that's just not going to happen. Human nature is what it is. I want to control people so that they all get the help they need before it's too late. Most people want to wait until the last possible second to get help, because they have hope that everything will work itself out on its own. And I can understand that. Truly. 


Just remember that I, along with most other qualified trainers, have spent a lot of time and money in this field of learning about and studying dog behavior. It's not something that the average person is expected to know. Like doctors, teachers, veterinarians, mechanics, construction workers, we trainers study the things that the average person doesn't have time or the interest to study. 


No, I can't push classes on people. And I certainly can't push private training on people. But I can recommend that you seek help at the first sign of the problem. Ask for help! Don't wait until it's too late. Prevention goes a very long way.


Maybe that was my passive-aggressive control tactic, yes?

Life is rough at Miss Behavior's house...

Introducing Rally-O

What is Rally-O? It's rally Obedience and it's a great dog sport that requires the dog and handler team to move through stations of signs with obedience skills (typically 10-20). The team of dog and handler moves continuously at a brisk, but normal, pace with the dog under control at the handler's left side. 


Here's how it works:

You and your dog will enter the ring and follow a course of numbered signs.

Each sign indicates a different obedience skill for your dog to perform.

You move at your own pace, completing each skill before moving on to the next one.

Though your dog has to be under your control, a perfect "heel position" is not required.

Rally is a fluid, continuous performance.

Once started, you move from one exercise to the next without being directed by the judge.

He just tags along to watch for mistakes.

His stopwatch is running, but the time is only taken into consideration if there's a tie in scores.

There are currently about 50 different exercises in the sport.

The judge will choose 10-20 exercises and build a course using the signs designating the selected exercises.

All exhibitors will receive a course map from the judge.

They're allowed to walk the course without their dogs prior to the start of the class.

Each owner/dog team starts out with the same number of points.

The judge deducts points for such errors as missed or incompletely performed stations, touching the dog, and leash corrections.

The team with the highest score (i.e., fewest number of faults) wins first place. The next highest score takes second place, and so forth.

(http://www.lovable-golden-retriever.com/rally-obedience.html)

In my opinion, this sport really fosters good teamwork between the handler-dog and it also encourages listening skills, manners, bonding, and confidence building. You can go all out and get competitive or you can do it just for fun


I'm thinking about starting my own version of Rally-O this spring, not so much for competition (just like when I teach agility) but rather for the experience of teaching your dog some good skills in a game-like fashion. 

Interested?? Please contact me so I can add you to the mailing list!
Info@MissBehaviorTraining.com
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