Sunday, September 25, 2011

Bringing your newly adopted dog home


Bringing your Newly Adopted Dog Home
By Miss Behavior CPDT-KA, Laura Chapman, MissBehaviorTraining.com

One of the most important things in bringing your new dog home is having patience. The transition takes time and while your family will want everything to work as quickly as possible, our new dog and existing pets will need anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 months to adjust.
Try to plan on bringing your new dog home when you have at least a full couple of days to spare. You will need to keep a close eye on your new companion and make sure all introductions to other family members progress smoothly so bringing a dog home on a Monday night and taking off to work the next morning is not smart.

Supplies to have ready at home:
Gate(s): so you can separate your new dog from your existing pets
Crate: Big enough for your new dog to stand up, lie down, turn around but not run marathons
Cleaner: Something specific to your dog having accidents in the house. Household cleaners won’t serve the purpose as they often have ammonia in them
Non-Slip/Martingale collar: This one if important for safety reasons. This type of collar can’t slip over your dog’s head if he panics and tries to back out of it
Flat leash: Not a retractable – they are both dangerous and sometimes scary if you drop it mistakenly. They also teach dogs that pulling on leash is encouraged (not an early message you want to send!)
Treats: Some really good stuff that can be used to encourage good habits such as going to the bathroom outside, lying down, sitting for greeting, introductions, etc
Kong: This can be stuffed with kibble, treats, peanut butter, etc for alone time

Introducing your new dog to your current family:
Slowly. Your new dog and existing dog(s) should meet on neutral ground, not in your front yard and certainly not in your house! Do the meet and greets one at a time. Walking the dogs together, without letting them greet right away is a good idea. Parallel walking really helps with bonding as it’s a low pressure way of meeting and greeting a new friend. Too much fixation, stiff tail wags, stiff bodies, posturing, raised hackles are all red flags to watch for. If this occurs, please consult a professional.

Once they are ready to come into the house together, use gates to give them breaks from each other. Be a good parent who enforces breaks. Over tired dogs can get cranky or can lose control of their impulses so even if all seems well, separate them for periods of time. This may need to continue for a couple of weeks. The dogs should not be left home alone together. The new dog should go through the crate training process. Leave your new dog alone in his crate (after properly introducing the crate) whether you are home or not. It’s critical that you teach your dog that you will leave for short periods of time, you will leave him with something to do or chew, and you WILL be back. Dogs who spend too much time with their new family and little time alone have a hard time coping with being left alone later on. This is the #1 cause of separation anxiety!

If you have a cat, take it very slow. Rub both the dog and cat down with a towel and switch them so they can get each other’s scent. Your cat should have an escape. Use gates. Put food up high or in his safe room. This is also where the litter box should go. Kitties who feel threatened often find alternative litter boxes!

Please consult a professional if your new or current pets show signs of distress or aggression, or for more in-depth information on introducing your new pet to your current family!
Visit APDT.com for a list of local behavior consultants

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Miss Behavior's Pack is growing again!

3 dogs, 1 cat, 2 goats, and now... 
                               a baby on the way!


This will be our first - Due April 15th - and I plan to share some of my own process of getting my animals ready for this wonderful new addition - surprise surprise!


Stay tuned!




If you or anyone you know is expecting, please check out this wonderful program or contact a certified professional to help you, no matter what stage you are in!
http://www.dogsandstorks.com/


Monday, July 18, 2011

Clicker Training

Clicker Training...


Clicker training is a method where you mark and reward every good behavior your dog performs. It is based on positive reinforcement methods. I used to be a huge fan but in teaches classes and in trying to pass on the method to my students, the clicker got left behind and replaced with a marker word, the word "yes". Using the word follows the same concept but it doesn't take the extra coordination the clicker does and you always have your words on you. I found that people often had a hard time remember to keep their clicker handy. Plus, and this is true even in my own experience, sometimes you truly need 3 hands to operate a clicker. So in trying to keep with realistic methods for my clients, the clicker basically disappeared from my teachings all together. 


However, I am reconsidering. The clicker really speeds up the training process, it is a unique sound so it becomes very significant to the dog. If you learn how to use a bridge word, such as "yes", you can easily transition from using the clicker to using the word so that once your dog has good experience with the new cues, you can really wean off the clicker very quickly.


Below is a video showing you the first few steps of introducing the clicker. The next video will show you how to start applying it to teach and clean up new behaviors



Sunday, June 26, 2011

A good video for teaching Leave It

I just came across a great video for teaching Leave It and thought I would share it for those people who have or are taking my classes and would like a little visual help. The only real difference between the way it is shown here and the way it is taught in my classes is that we don't use a clicker. Instead we use the verbal marker "YES"


Please contact me with questions!

Wait for Permission in a Multiple Dog Household

Wait for Permission is an essential skill that every dog should have because it teaches them to defer to you for permission to have or do something. The most important time to teach this to your dog is before feeding them their breakfast or dinner because the bowl of food is such a jackpot reward. In the beginning stages, you can actually break each meal up into 3 small meals so that you can practice the "wait for permission" 3 times in a row. Each dog needs to be able to do this individually before he can be expected to do it as a group skill. 


Below is a video of my dogs demonstrating their Group Wait for Permission with their individual releases




The Group Wait for permission with individual releases is a great skill for multiple dog households. It teaches impulse control, diffuses jealousy between dogs, and teaches each dog that you control the access to the resources, thus reinforcing all your dogs to defer to you even among his/her "siblings" and distractions. 




Please note: If your dog shows any signs of food guarding, or resource guarding - consult a professional! While this is a great game to help modify the guarding behavior, it needs to be done properly and with good management or it can make the guarding behavior worse!


If you are interested in getting more information on how to teach this or other skills for your multiple dog household, please contact me for more info or to set up some training
MissBehaviorTraining.com

Monday, May 16, 2011

Open Enrollment Classes


Click image to be directed to website


What is open enrollment?
These classes allow you to start class at any time 
(as soon as there is a spot open). 
No more having to wait 6 weeks to enter a class! 
When you sign up for a class, you will choose a class start date 
and time and receive a punch card with a certain number of classes
to be attended before you can graduate and move to the next level.
This makes for an easy way to keep track of which classes you have
taken and which you still need to attend to complete the course. 
Classes are structured so that each week does not depend 
on the previous week, and if you need to skip a week you can
make it up at a later date without getting behind.
You and your dog will be exposed to many different dogs 
throughout your rotation allowing for more socialization 
and more realistic training opportunity!

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Email update from a client that I just have to share

"Laura!

I’m so excited to share this with you! My mother in law came over today. Usually Buddy freaks out and I have to hold him the whole time she’s here because the minute he hits the floor he goes for her ankles. This time I had Buddy greet her on the porch, and I distracted him with “sit/stay” as she came inside - no ankle chasing!  And after a few minutes ALL three dogs were sitting (anything for cheese) – even Ember who usually almost knocks her over jumping! When they were calm I stopped, and all three took a nap. When my mother in law left she did a couple touches with Buddy as she left and he never went to her ankles, and, she was even able to give him a pat on the head and get a tail wag. For the first time ever we had a calm visit at my house!
Yay!!!"

And then another email later that night...


"And it just keeps getting better – Buddy just got out through a hole in the fence (we didn’t know was there) and took off down the road – I yelled “touch” – he stopped dead in his tracks and came running back to me! (and was rewarded with the biggest piece of cheese ever for that one!)"


So proud of all of them!! A++ from Miss Behavior!